The Hoot Locker

Kristel

A Deeper Look At The Raptors' Third Quarter Meltdowns

How sickening was that?

After coming off a string of games that could safely be considered their best basketball of the season, the Raptors have now lost 2 in a row. The latest coming at the hands of the lowly Indiana Pacers after building a 23 point lead. I'm convinced it's become routine now, those third quarter meltdowns the Raps have gone through countless times this season. If there was a stat for most amount of leads of 10+ given up, I'd bet that the Raptors are at least in the top 5 of the league. Whether it has to do with fatigue, talent, or mental aspects, we're just not able to consistently pull it out. I noted yesterday that it's the elite teams in the NBA that are able to establish leads and keep the opposition at bay; regardless of how extensive the runs are.

The root of the problem lies in the third quarter. Here are the 3rd quarter point totals in the last 10 Raptor losses (outscored bolded).

TOR: 19 IND: 26
TOR: 30 BOS: 34
TOR: 19 BOS: 20
TOR: 25 ORL: 26
TOR: 24 MIA: 31
TOR: 23 ATL: 28
TOR: 29 MIL: 26
TOR: 30 ATL: 39
TOR: 23 WAS: 17
TOR: 27 PHX: 34

In the last 10 losses, the Raptors have lost the battle of the 3rd quarter 8 times. They are averaging 24.9 points per game in the 3rd quarter of these particular losses. Scoring is not the problem here. The Raptors basically put up 25 points in the 3rd frame, which fits nicely with their average of 103 points per game - that's good for 3rd best in the league. However, it's the defense that's killing them. On average, they are giving up a whopping 28.1 points per game in the 3rd quarter. That would be good for a total of 112.4 points per game if they played on that pace the entire way through (good enough for last in the NBA).

The other interesting part is that this reality is relevant in the games we WIN as well! (outscored bolded)

TOR: 34 PHI: 25
TOR: 28 ORL: 19
TOR: 19 SA: 21
TOR: 29 CHA: 24
TOR: 14 DET: 28
TOR: 20 DET: 14
TOR: 25 NO: 22
TOR: 24 NJ: 27
TOR: 20 HOU: 21
TOR: 21 MIN: 28

In our last 10 wins, we've been outscored in the 3rd quarter half of the time. Not surprisingly, all but one of the teams that we've beaten (San Antonio) are in the bottom half of the league in field goal percentage. Are we playing defense? Or just lucking out?

I'm sure our coaching staff is already well aware of this trend, but I think it's gotten to a point where we have to do something differently. Whether it's a change in the rotations in the 3rd quarter, or a shift in the game plan to keep the game manageable; something must be done to change our fortunes in the 3rd. Because what happens in that quarter sets the tone for the rest of the second half. If the Raps can find a way to step on an opponent's throat right after halftime, it greatly reduces the chance of any comeback for the rest of the game.

Fun with Dick and Bob

For over 60 years the Holmes brothers, Dick and Bob, have been making firearms for friends and neighbors in their little corner of North Carolina. This may not seem like much until you consider that they started their arms-making “career” when they were mere lads.

Dick relates, “As kids, my brother and I were always fascinated with guns, especially pistols. Being too young and also not having the means to buy one, we did the next best thing - we made some for ourselves and some to sell. Most were pretty well-made affairs, but simple. We used an in-line system and brass barrels.”

Dick also adds that their endeavor was not without its challenges as they had to stay a step ahead of the local lawman, and those who bought the brothers’ wares were sworn to secrecy. Dick explains, “Any boy that bought one from us had to swear not to tell where he got it. Never got caught, but came close.” He goes on to explain, “The local police chief was asked one time where a guy might purchase a cheap handgun. His answer was, ‘Go see them two boys down on the other end of town. They got'um, but I ain't never been able to find'um.’”

Their fledgling arms business faced other challenges, too, such as a supply of suitable loading components for their guns, as Dick relates, “Ammunition consisted of match heads, firecracker powder and plumbers lead rolled into round balls for bullets.”

Hey, sometimes you just have to be resourceful and use what you have.

Then in the 1960’s the Holmes boys found Herschel Logan’s wonderful book on underhammer guns. That's when their gun-making kicked into high gear when they decided to copy one of the rifles featured in the book. Dick said, “Through trial and error, we learned to bore, ream and rifle the barrel for it. The only thing we bought to build that rifle was a brass butt plate casting. We made everything else - even the metal and wood screws.”

Now sneaking up on his mid 70’s, Dick is still making underhammer guns of one sort or another and he has sent us these pics of some of his favorite underhammer pistols. All display fine workmanship and good quality materials. You can click on the pics to take a closer look at the details of the different mechanisms he employed in making them. Then click the Back arrow to return to the text.

Following is Dick’s brief description of his pistols.

1. A Target Pistol of 36 cal., 6 ¾-inch rifled barrel, takes a # 11 cap, cherry grip, two piece firing mechanism. As the spring hammer is pulled to cock, the rear of the spring pushes the rear of trigger forward to engage the sear in front of trigger with the hammer notch. This pistol has adjustable sights.

This second photo is of Dick's sketch which displays the utter simplicity of the mechanism of the first pistol which is not readily apparent in the photo.

2. The Carleton Reproduction is 36 cal., 7 7/8-inch rifled barrel, takes a # 11 cap, walnut grip. Early understriker design, trigger guard serves as hammer spring, has adjustable sights. (Editor's note: There is a sketch of the unusual Carleton mechanism in an earlier post further down this page entitled, The Underhammer Rifle - a book for builders.)

3. This is a Gambler-type Pistol of 40 cal., with a 4 ¾-inch smooth bore barrel and takes a # 11 cap, has a walnut grip. The hammer is a spring and rotates for capping nipple. Safe to carry in pocket because the trigger blocks hammer, can be fired double action.


4. This Hale Design has a 3 5/8-inch rifled barrel, takes # 11 cap and has a maple grip. This is a conventional underhammer with a backstrap around the grip.

5. This Ladies Pistol is 31 cal. and has a 2 ¾-inch smooth bore. It is a pill lock and has maple two-piece grips. The hammer is also a spring and rotates to insert the priming pill, as in no. 3. It’s a very safe gun to carry concealed as the trigger blocks the hammer until pulled. It can also be fired double action.

6. The photo to the left is of an H. E. Leman reproduction in 41 cal. with a 13 7/8-inch rifled barrel. It takes a # 11 cap and has a maple grip. Also has a holster and ramrod over 19 inches overall. Brass mounted with fully adjustable sights. If a fellow had one of these and a Hawken Rifle going West back then, he was a big man.


Our thanks to Dick and Bob for sharing their history and to Dick for sharing his fine collection of underhammer pistols with us. Please accept this as our humble tribute to your lifetime of contributions to the ongoing history of underhammer arms.





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Hunting Season Mixed Bag

Tapered Paper Cartridges

Those of us who hunt with muzzleloading rifles, whether underhammer or of inferior designs, all have one common concern – a quick and accurate follow-up shot. For some time I have been thinking about and designing a really nice quick-load gadget made of copper tubing and having a nice chain to hold the beautiful turned-wood plug captive while loading my Faeton or New Century rifle.

I was all set to start making a few of these gadgets so I wouldn’t have to carry loose powder and ball into the field. I really like simple and the speed loader seemed like a really good idea that would save me fumbling for my powder flask, measuring powder and inevitably spilling some in the process. Then, of course, getting patch and ball together and ramming onto the powder and finally to futzing with a cap.

Yes sir, my neat little copper tubing speed loader would save me from most of the uncertainty and chance of Murphy's Law while performing a quick reload in the field. I thought I had it all figured out.

Then I got a call from my friend, Bruce…

Now understand that I am not one to abandon a good idea too quickly – especially when it’s MY good idea. But I have to admit that after talking with Bruce I gave up my little copper tube speed-loader idea without a second thought. It was a no-brainer decision.

What Bruce shared with me was another speed-loading gadget – the paper cartridge. Now I know you’re probably thinking that paper cartridges aren’t anything new. In fact, I’d be willing to bet a donut hole that some of you have probably tried making and shooting the traditional paper cartridge at one time or another. I know I have and I was a bit under whelmed with the results in the field.

However, all that said, Bruce shares a rather clever twist to the old concept that deserves a fresh look from those of us who think we’ve seen it all. Bruce shows us how to make and use TAPERED paper cartridges that load in a blink and shoot more accurately than you would ever believe possible. The paper cartridge actually becomes the patch and a cushion wad! I was immensely impressed.


The target seen here, shot at 75 yards, shows a first shot in the bull and the tapered paper cartridge follow-up shot just an inch to the left of the first shot. Can't ask for much better accuracy from a quick follow up shot.

But, rather than steal more of his thunder, I’ll let Bruce tell his story to you. Unfortunately I cannot publish the whole story here directly due to technical difficulties in converting media and posting photos etc. So the whole story has been converted to a PDF file which I will be more than happy to send to you readers if you send a request to me at underhammers@safe-mail.net .

Don't pass up this opportunity. E-mail me now to request Bruce's story and perhaps you could be hunting with this speedy and simple reloading system this season. Believe me when I say that you will be pleasantly surprised when using and shooting these tapered paper cartridges.

Thanks, Bruce, for a most helpful and timely contribution.




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Underhammer Fobs

When my love with underhammers was just beginning to blossom I had one bad experience that almost soured the affair. At the time I was still shooting customized versions of the Numrich Arms "Hopkins & Allen" (by now you should know that it isn't really a Hopkins and Allen design - Numrich just used the name) rifle with its typical hammer spur.

The rifle was loaded and I had it shouldered and aimed. Reaching forward to cock the hammer, I wrapped my forefinger around the hammer spur and pulled to bring the hammer to the full-cock position when it unexpectedly slipped from my finger. Luckily the trigger sear snagged the hammer’s half-cock notch (which is what it is supposed to do) and prevented an AD (accidental discharge).

Unfortunately, the very fragile sear at the front nose of the trigger was broken and the half-cock notch in the hammer was rather buggered as well. As you might imagine, that ended an otherwise great day at the range. My wife says that I should try to find the positive in every situation... Because I did create some new vocabulary appropriate for the situation, which, by the way, has served me well in similar situations since, the day was not a complete loss. Perhaps my wife was right. It did, after all, also inspire me to add a loop to the then-emerging Zephyr hammer design for attachment of a fob.

BTW, had it not been for that half-cock notch, my rifle would have fired. Luckily, I was pointed down range at the moment that occurred.

That incident got me to thinking about a means of drawing an under-mounted hammer to the cocked position with more assurance of full and complete engagement of the lockwork with less chance of a repeat of earlier experiences along with the attendant new vocabulary that such events tend to provoke.

 A very simple solution is a Hammer Fob. For those of you who have never had a pocket watch, a fob can be any sort of do-dad that is attached by cord or chain that allows you to easily draw an object from a secure position, like retrieving a pocket watch from your pocket.

Here are two examples of how to affix a simple leather lace having a knot for the fob. I used Zephyr hammers for our demonstration. The hammer on the left shows how to loop the leather over the shank of a typical type of (under) hammer and knotting it. Then a few more wraps of leather lace tied close up to the hammer shank will keep the fob from pulling off the hammer when it is cocked. The hammer on the right shows how the Zephyr hammer easily accepts the fob with just a loop through the hammer curl and a simple knot to secure it.
                                                                                                                                                      

Affixing a fob to a hammer allows you to simply grab hold of the fob and give it a good tug to cock the hammer. Obviously these are very simple examples, but you get the general idea. Right?
 
The fob itself can be very basic, such as a few strands of leather lace with a knot, as seen on the Zephyr hammers, or perhaps with a trinket or a piece of trade silver attached. Or,  it could be rather ornate such as the optional fine chain tassel as seen in these photos of my new, concealed-hammer New Century underhammer rifle.

If you're hunting during the typical big-game season and your fingers are cold, stiff, wet, or all of those, you will surely appreciate a hammer fob or tassel.  It will certainly make cocking the hammer easier and safer.

Clicking on any of the photos will enlarge them for a closer look at the details. Clicking on the "Back" button will return you to the text.

Well, there you have it, simple and neat. Did I mention that I really appreciate simple solutions?


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Press’n Seal® clean up?

Here’s another mixed bag tip that is sure to save you mess and fuss and preserve the finish on your favorite smokepole and, perhaps, your marriage, too, if you’re hitched to an obsessive neatnik.

Cleaning up after shooting my muzzleloading or blackpowder cartridge guns has never been the warm and fuzzy part of the whole shooting experience for me. In fact, to be absolutely truthful about it, I’ve even tried thinking up ways to be able to put off the cleaning as long as possible before there might be damage to the bore of my rifle.

It seems that no matter how careful I was, keeping that dirty, smelly, foul and corrosive water off the wood of my rifle was always a challenge during the bore-cleaning process. I like to use a nipple replacement which is actually another form of nipple to which you attach a plastic hose. Your cleaning jag or mop, if tightly fitted to the bore, will allow you to draw water from a bucket into the bore of your rifle. This is a simple means to clean your rifle and is intended to keep the mess to a minimum.

I’m sure most of you readers are quite familiar with the process. If not, you can visit Track of the Wolf as well as most other muzzleloading suppliers and check out their wares and give the gadget and the process a try.

Even when taking all the necessary precaution, I still managed to get that nasty water on the forearm of my rifle. Then my wife introduced me to Press’n Seal® plastic wrap and my life became a much happier place.

Available at most any supermarket, this stuff sticks to metal, wood, and itself amazingly well and can be used to wrap your rifle barrel and forearm, or the complete rifle if you’re really messy. This stuff is not like the early plastic wrap that gave you fits trying to manage it once off the roll. The Press'n Seal product actually behaves quite well and is rather obedient to your commands.

Wrapping with the plastic film will render your rifle's wood protected – at least within the context of normal cleaning. Probably won’t keep it absolutely dry if you’re one of those who takes his rifle into the shower with him. But, we really don’t want to go there…

They say a picture is worth a thousand words, so I’ll stop here and you can take a look at the graphic and imitate if you haven’t figured it out by now. And, if you need a closer look, just click on the pic and then click your "Back" button to return to the text.

Hope that's helpful. Made clean-up a lot easier for me. Of course, if you're shooting a Forsyth barrel, clean up is a snap, anyway. Be that as it may, I haven't given up my search for something that will safely allow me to put off cleaning for another day.

So, the next time you're faced with the mess and drudgery of cleaning your muzzleloader, as they say,  "Don't get mad, get Glad."

Works for me.

Wade's at it again! Ingrham's Underhammer Harmonica Rifle

When we consider underhammer firearms we generally think in terms of them being single-shot arms. But there were some enterprising individuals who were thinking way out of the box for their time at the onset of the underhammer period. Those Enlightened Ones wanted a repeating underhammer rifle. Probably the best known of those few underhammer repeating designs is the slide action or “harmonica” gun.







The slide or harmonica of the design consists of a flat bar having several holes drilled into it to act as chambers, hence the reference to the harmonica. At the back and on the bottom, the harmonica is fitted with percussion nipples for ignition. It also has an additional set of holes that accommodate a spring loaded brass plunger that acts to lock the harmonica’s chambers in correct alignment with the barrel for firing.

The photo here shows the loaded and lubed chambers on the front of the harmonica bar. Just a reminder that clicking on any of the photos will enlarge them for viewing the details of the design. Clicking the Back arrow on your webpage will take you back to the text.

The harmonica slides through a steel frame into which the barrel is fitted. So arranged, the harmonica is advanced for each shot by cocking the hammer, releasing the locking mechanism, then simply pushing the slide to the next chamber. By releasing the locking plunger it will snap back into the appropriate hole thereby locking the harmonica in position.

This view to the left shows the bottom of the action with the harmonica in place and locked by the spring-loaded brass locking plunger.

Ironically, as advanced as the concept was for the day, it never really caught on in its own time and very few rifles have actually survived for us to study. Those few that have survived command such high prices that few of us will ever enjoy the privilege of handling and studying one up close.

Another interesting fact about harmonicas that is unknown but to a few moderns is that Jonathan Browning's earliest commercial products were underhammer harmonica rifles which he built in Quincy, Illinois in the 1830s before later moving on to Ogden, Utah.

Now, about 175 years later, the underhammer harmonica is being revived by our friend, Wade Ingrham. You may recall an earlier post on this blog regarding his underhammer rifles and his underhammer flintlock pistol. To say he’s mechanically adventurous is an understatement. And while he may technically be retired at 87 years young, you just can’t keep a mechanical kind of guy sitting idle very long before his mind runs wild with new ideas that seek expression in the tangible world.

So, check this out cause it is waaaaay cool!

Wade decided that his single shot underhammer design needed rapid-fire capability. To his basic take-down underhammer design he’s added an addition that converts his singleshot into a .36 calibre 5-shot repeater! The Ingrham Underhammer Harmonica Rifle is the result.

Wade’s takedown design allows him to switch from the singleshot mode to the repeater mode with just a few turns of the take down screw which is positioned just forward of the hammer. You can take a look at our previous post about Wade to view that take-down process.


Loading of the rifle is pretty simple and straightforward and requires that the harmonica be removed from the rifle. Wade designed a simple lever loading tool to load the harmonica in much the same manner as one would load a percussion revolver cylinder. First the chamber is loaded with 15 grains of fffg blackpowder, after which the round ball is placed into the chamber mouth and then seated on top of the powder with the loading press. When all five chambers are loaded, the empty space above each bullet is filled with grease to act as bullet lube and to prevent a crossfire.

A crossfire is more known to occur in percussion revolvers and is the result of the flame from the combustion blowing through the cylinder gap and igniting the powder in the adjoining chamber. As you can imagine, that makes for an exciting, albeit a dangerous day at the range.

Although a crossfire is definitely a very real possibility in a percussion revolver where each chamber is extremely close to the next, in Wade’s harmonica the distance between chambers is so great that the chance of a crossfire is very remote. When the chamber is then topped with grease the chance of a crossfire is virtually nil.

Flipping the harmonica on its front side allows the nipples to be easily capped by hand or by a capper. Then the harmonica is simply slid into place to bring the first chamber into alignment with the barrel at which point the spring-loaded slide lock pops into place and you’re ready to fire.

It should be noted that the harmonica can be started from either side of the receiver making the whole arrangement ambidextrous. And, of course, there is no ramrod needed for loading.



Here's a top view of the Ingrham Harmonica Rifle loaded and ready to rock and roll.

I’m sure that Wade’s rifle will probably inspire some of you other underhammer makers to venture out and try something new and for that I believe he deserves a round of applause and our appreciation for his efforts and inspiration to the rest of us.






While Wade's pics are pretty self explanatory, if you have any questions about Wade’s underhammers I’m sure he would welcome your e-mail. His e-mail address is listed on an earlier post down below so go back and take a look at his earlier work and you can then better appreciate the ingenuity of his single shot/repeater conversion.











Just in from Wade is the video below of him demonstrating the rapid fire capability of his Underhammer Harmonica Rifle. This is really a rare opportunity as there are probably only a handful of people in the whole world who have ever seen a harmonica rifle being fired.

Turn up the sound, click the arrow on the bottom of the video frame below, and Wade will show you how it's done!

You're going to love this!

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Here's a view of those 5 quick, barely-aimed shots at 25 yards.
Click the pic for a closer look at the target.

To really appreciate the underhammer harmonica one must consider that at the time of its introduction at the very outset of the percussion age, the harmonica rifle was the technological equivalent of today's Vulcan gun. It was futuristicly cutting edge!

Imagine that its the late '20s or early '30s - that's the 1820s or 30s - and you are armed with a flint rifle, or perhaps you're a man of means and had one of those really modern wizbang percussion guns, or maybe you had a conversion of a flinter to a cap buster. And let's imagine that you came upon an opponent with the capability of firing five aimed shots in about 10 seconds. But, who could also swap his empty harmonica for a loaded spare and deliver another five shots before having to reload. I don't know about you, but that would be fairly intimidating to me.

Truly, the harmonica rifle really was a wonder in its day and did inspire the development of several later repeating designs.

So there you have it boys and girls - Wade's Underhammer Harmonica Rifle.
I don't know about you, but I'm sure impressed!

Thanks Wade, for sharing your achievements and inspiring the rest of us.

Remember, kids, you saw it here first!

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LePage Rifle

Our thanks go to one of our readers who tracked down this fine example of underhammer gunmaking and to our good friends at Track of the Wolf, Inc. for their kind permission to share it with you.


This .50 calibre rifle was built by Bruce LePage and displays an interesting combination of features not usually seen in contemporary underhammer circles. Fancy maple was the wood of choice for the forearm and buttstock which wears a smooth shotgun butt that I’m sure slips right up to the shoulder as smooth as silk.

I have always admired those underhammer designs that incorporate the trigger guard to perform double duty by also motivating the hammer. LePage delivers with a very graceful trigger guard which is pinned to the hammer and a super slender trigger which adds a touch of refinement that pleases the eye.

LePage’s 28-inch barrel is part octagon with the balance round and tapered to the muzzle, which provides for good balance. While not unique in and of itself, LePage takes the execution of the transition of the octagon to round lengths of the barrel to another level with the slight rotation of the last inch of the octagon portion. This is a clever twist (no pun intended) which when combined with his rope treatment of the traditional wedding band provides more tasteful eye candy.

A conservative pewter cap provides a classy finish to the forearm which is secured by pin and escutcheon treatment. LePage chose to expose the hickory ramrod on the bottom of the forearm but captivates it within a ramrod tube at the rear of the forearm.

At 6 ½ pounds the LePage rifle is nicely done and is probably a sweetheart of a rifle to shoot.

Again, thanks to our friends at Track of the Wolf for sharing this rifle with us. More photos of the LePage rifle can be seen at www.trackofthewolf.com.

Yes, another underhammer flint-pistol maker!

Well, it seems that there are now at least two underhammer builders who were intrigued enough by the concept of an underhammer flintlock to build one. Our friend Scott Coy has now joined the ranks of that elite little group who have successfully made an underhammer flintlock.

Here's Scott's story .

Remember to click on the photos for a closer look, then click your Back arrow to return to the text.

My First Underhammer Flintlock

by Scott Coy

It all started as a joke!

A shooting buddy of mine stopped into my shop one afternoon to see what I had been up to. Having just finished an underhammer percussion rifle I handed it to him and asked him what he thought of it. Knowing that I am an avid flintlock shooter he said “why didn’t you make it a flintlock?” We laughed about it but after he left I was wondering if it could be done? I searched the net trying to find any information on underhammer flintlocks and found very little. Now it became a challenge.

I had been working on this underhammer rifle for nearly a month so I understood the concept pretty well. With close examination I realized that I could modify the percussion hammer to hold a flint and build a pan to hold the frizzen and I would have an underhammer flintlock. It sounded logical to me but I don’t think that it would have looked very good. A flintlock has to have a graceful S-shaped cock. To me looks are almost as important as function!

I started to draw out some ideas on paper but things didn’t progress. A couple weeks went by until one day while working on a large Siler flintlock the light went ON in my head!. I took the Siler apart and arranged the parts upside-down and at that moment I knew that I could make this thing work.

Having built several conventional flintlocks in the past I decided to use existing parts where I could. The H&A type mainspring-trigger guard was the logical choice for the main spring. I added a piece to the cut-out side of a large Siler cock, adapting it to utilize the H&A spring. This piece also has the half and full cock notches cut into it.

It’s a tricky process to get those in the correct place! I used a sear to engage the half and full cock notches and I made the trigger from scratch.

Getting everything in the proper position and working correctly took a lot of time. It was all trial and error. Mistakes were made and some parts were turned into junk, but that’s what happens when you are trying to create something new. Making something simple is a lot harder than one might think!

With my hand-made or modified parts assembled into the action I still was not sure that this thing would actually work. The main spring seemed to have plenty of power. The half and full cock notches seemed to hold, but would this thing really work? I put a piece of wood in the jaws of the cock then pulled the cock to the full-cock position. Touched the trigger and it actually worked - the first time! With the wood replaced with a new flint I brought the gun to full-cock and touched the trigger again. The frizzen gave off a beautiful shower of sparks right into the pan. I thought I had this thing whipped.

At the shooting range things didn’t go that good. It seemed that I had overlooked one minor obstacle - GRAVITY. With a conventional flinter you try to get the flint to strike about 1/3 the height of the frizzen from the top. With the underhammer design, the powder was igniting too far below the vent and ignition was very slow. I also had several flash-in-the-pans without the barrel firing. To remedy this situation I adjusted the flint to strike the frizzen at about the half-way point. I also opened the vent a bit larger than I normally would. Doing this and a few other small "tweaks" got it to fire pretty fast and eliminated those flash-in-the-pan misfires. However, I still haven’t got it to fire as fast as a well tuned conventional flintlock!

For those of you contemplating a project like this I will tell you that this is a very complicated build. The placement of parts is very critical and there isn’t much room for error. Study the parts placement and geometry of a conventional flintlock. They have been around for hundreds of years and are about as close to perfect as they can get.



For me, designing this gun and getting it to shoot while keeping it as simple as possible was the challenge. I know there are a lot of you who can do a much better job on something like this than I did and I would like to see examples of your work.


Thanks, again Scott for sharing your story.
Anyone else up to the challenge?

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